the charm of Italy’s hidden gems

I don’t do well at TripAdvisor tourist attractions. The throng that pushes past you for snapshots, the tour guide waving a skinny flag and speaking into a handheld mic – they overwhelm me. The scene in front of me should be breathtaking, but I am short of breath, an intense desire welling up in me to escape. Yet, there is nothing else to do except take over-replicated photo standards. I am a fly hopping, unsettled, from attraction to attraction, hoping to capture the best on camera then move on. In reality, however, I wish I was a sponge, keeping still and slowly letting the country seep into me instead – the words, the culture, the people.

I felt somewhat successful at this, curled up in a corner of a wooden bench, howling winds hurling around our tiny refugio perched 2250 metres atop the Dolomite mountain range. The table was strewn with my first Italian English book “In Other Words” by Jhumpa Lahiri, a Fodor’s “Italian for Travelers” handbook and a variety of coloured markers I used for scribbling translations in the margins. This trip to Italy I determined to be different from my other voyeuristic travels and so, dedicated myself to the task of learning Italian, planning an itinerary that would take us through the backroads, the lesser-known parts of this country.

As our itinerary unfolded, I found myself falling more in love with Italy’s rustic charm. Behind the Dolce and Gabbana glamour of Milan or the magnificent Colosseum of Rome was hidden the authentic Italy: sleepy Assisi, medieval Bologna, and the stout olive trees lined row upon row upon row. Here is a quick run-down of the not so well known parts of Italy, bypassing the typical towns of Rome, Florence and Venice and diving straight into where I uncovered some of this country’s greatest gems.

1. The Amalfi Coast and its surrounding coastal towns

Instead of shoring up in the costly hotels of Amalfi, Sorrento or Positano, we booked an AirBnB accommodation along the winding roads of the coast: a rectangular building of plaster walls and bright blue shutters perched atop rock overlooking the sea. Upon recommendation of our local host, we discovered a beautiful pizzeria tucked away in the narrow tunnels within the Duomo, the centrepiece of Amalfi. Wandering in non-linear fashion, we headed towards Donna Stella Pizzeria, where we sat down to thin-crust pizza served on an open-air terrace with a roof of creeping vines, hanging heavy with ripe lemons. Amalfi is infamous for its lemons; its fruit stands proudly display lemons of gargantuan size and bottles of limoncello, a lemon liquor produced in Southern Italy, line any basic storefront. The best lemon cake I tasted was at a little family-run cafe, strategically located on the Ville delle Ferriere. This is a hike through the paper mill ruins that dot the natural reserves that surround the town. Paired with homemade elderberry tea, the cake was light, spongy with lemon undertones and we savoured the combination while watching sweaty hikers pass us by.

If Ravello were the sibling of Amalfi, it would be the charming but shy younger sister. It was less populated with tourists, and we were able to wander its cobblestone streets with the only interruption being processions of wedding guests making their way to Villa Cimbrone, where an elaborate, traditional Italian wedding was taking place that evening. With its manicured hedges, towering umbrella trees and majestic views, this garden seemed to be cloistered away, untouched by the realities of daily life. Ravello was also where we experienced a touch of Southern Italian hospitality over our dinner at Cumpa Cosimo. In addition to the delicious pasta sampler and mushroom fettucini (from which I learned the real definition of ‘al dente’) we ordered, the waiters, and even the Mama of the family business, would dish out free samples from the kitchen: cut up slices of Pizza Margherita, meatballs, and even my favourite tiramisu to end.

The towns of Praiano and Positano are bridged by the infamous “Path of the Gods” or “Sentiero degli Dei”. Although suggested by multiple blogs and tourist guides as a “must-do”, by setting out early in the morning, we avoided the crowds, and were able to enjoy the stunning views of the cliffside towns hanging precariously over the dazzling waters almost the entire course of the hike. The entire hike took us about four hours, including a brutal climb of steep stone that could be avoided if one chose Nocelle instead of Praiano as the starting point. I spent the rest of the afternoon floating in the clear, sparkling waters of Positano and picking the smoothest pebbles from its unique basalt-colored beach.

2. Umbria

When one thinks of rural Italy, often the regions of Umbria and Tuscany immediately come to mind, conjuring images of rolling hills, vineyards and olive oil. Yet, unlike its more sophisticated and popular neighbour, Umbria is down-to-earth, simple, and perhaps more genuine. Our first encounter with Umbria, after driving north from the Amalfi Coast, was in the town of Spoleto with our AirBnB host, Nunzio. He didn’t speak any English, so as the member who had taught myself Italian the past 4 months, I was our family’s representative to communicate in my broken Italian littered with verbs in the wrong tense.

“Ecco la cucina,” Nunzio gestures with his hand, and turns to me for translation. “The kitchen,” I fill in for my family.

His speech was slow, measured, and his smile warm, slightly abashed at his lack of English. His apartment was fully equipped with everything from personal bathrobes to shower caps, proof of the genuine hospitality that characterises the Umbrian people.

Wandering around the towns of Spoleto and Assisi, I felt entranced, drawn into the magic of Umbria. The architecture looked like a scene from the Disney movie “Enchanted” with its high arches connecting walls of sand-colored brick. The occasional Francescan monk, dressed in the simple hooded dark vestiture, would pass us, making me feel like I was an anachronism, the one strangely out of place. Each Umbrian town has a few main attractions; Spoleto’s famous sight is the Rocca Albornoz, the papal fortress towering over the city, and Assisi has the iconic Basilica di San Francesco, where St. Francis of Assisi is buried. But, to be honest, the best way to truly experience these cities is to wander with no particular aim in mind, soaking in the leisurely pace of life the Umbrians enjoy.

While Tuscany developed under the influence of the Medici family and thus carries undertones of wealth and fame, Umbria’s heroes were Catholic saints, those who left their lives of comfort for the simple life, wandering through the mountainous districts of Umbria, cheerful and full of song. As I myself wandered through its sleepy towns, I recited aloud a quote by St. Francis, letting the truth of the words sink deep into my soul: Remember that when you leave this earth, you can take nothing that you have received…but only what you have given; a full heart enriched by honest service, love, sacrifice and courage.

3. Tuscany

One of the best ways to experience this region known for its agricultural success is by staying in an agriturismo, a farmhouse-turned-hotel. Ours was nestled in the hills of Chianti, a region recognised for its olive oil groves and vineyards. A series of steep switchbacks up the Tuscan hills led us to Il Giardino – and a terrace with a panoramic view of the countryside where one can enjoy wine while watching the sun descend into the undulating hills.

This is where Italians – and tourists who are in on this secret – escape to the countryside in search of la dolce vita, directly translated as “the sweet life”. One could participate in the various activities organised by the agriturismo, ranging from olive oil grove tours to cooking classes, or simply spend all day sun-basking on deck chairs by the pool. Whatever you decide, the goal is to have an authentic Italian experience with the locals in the country.

True to their reputation, Italians love their food, and agriturismos are known for serving up the best, local fare. Dinner is not so much about getting full, as it is about savouring the sight, smell and texture of food, while sharing in a joke with loved ones around the table. As such, dinner is a long drawn-out affair with four courses separated by at least 20 – 30 minutes of waiting time in between each course. As a family that usually finishes dinner in a swift 20 minutes, the long waiting times made us wonder if the kitchen had in fact entirely forgotten about us. Needless to say, the resultant two hour dinner was our induction to our authentic Italian experience.

To start off, the antipasti was bruschetta topped with four different types of tartare and a platter of cold hams and local cheeses. The primo piatto, usually a type of rice or pasta, was tagliatelle with a bolognais sauce and when we thought we were full, the secondo piatto emerged: an extensive display of grilled meats, accompanied by fresh salad and side fries. We ended the meal with dolci – vanilla ice-cream and raisin cookies. I ordered a cafe latte to pair with my dessert, only to learn later that Italians always end with an espresso as milk coats the tongue, taking away from the full appreciation of the beauty that is the meal.

“Anda a Firenze,” my foreigner status became even more apparent when I attempted to converse in Italian with Gabrio, the cook who had asked us how the meal was. Gabrio was born and raised in the Tuscan hills, the agriturismo a family business that was passed down to him and his brother, who were also in charge of running the olive oil factory during the busy harvest months of October to December when private olive grove owners flock to their factory to get their olives pressed. He leaned his tall, dark frame against the table, “Anda – that’s not an Italian word,” he gently corrected with a chuckle.

My faux-pas didn’t stop me from trying out more of my Italian, however, and the next day I found myself pouring water from buckets into troughs as I learned the Italian names of each animal – oca (goose), maiale (pig). I stumbled through my infantile Italian: “Here?” “Water…inside?” The one thing I knew she wanted me to do, at least, was pull out armfuls of hay and strew it across the animal pens for their lunch. I knew I was more of an obstacle to an otherwise efficient process, but Dorina, with her sure, strong hands of a farm girl and her tanned face framed with brusquely-cut thick, brown hair, was patient with me. “Pomeriggio” she corrected me, as I tried to ask her what she will be doing this afternoon but may have used the word “tomato” in place of “afternoon”. “Busy,” she answered, “We have a pizza dinner, so cooking, making the dough.”

It was humbling, learning to step out and most likely, make a mistake. But in the process, I was able to connect with the heart of Italy: the locals who pressed their own olives, made their own pizza dough and truly lived and worked the ground

4. The Dolomites

I fell asleep on the drive from Tuscany north to the Dolomites, the section of the Alps clustered around the north-eastern end of Italy. When I awoke, the rolling Tuscan hills had been replaced by sheer rock face, the ash-grey structures rising majestically out of the ground and dwarfing the road that snaked deftly around them. Our first stop was in the German-speaking town of Montan; I was no longer in the heart, but at the boundary of intersecting cultures.

“I’m a mix of German, Italian, French and English,” the son of our AirBnB host introduced himself, explaining his icy-blue eyes and shock of golden hair. It was as if I had stepped into another country altogether.

The food was heartier; instead of thin-crust pizza and fettucine, we were served casunzei, small folded pasta packets with either a white (potatoes and herbs) or red (beet) filling, and canerdeli, large, plump dumplings stuffed with speck (dry, smoked ham). Of course, the locals maintain their willowy figure by working off all those calories running the Alpine trails as morning exercise.

To truly understand what the Dolomites is, you have to spend a few days doing what the thru-hikers do. The Alta Via is a challenging 12-day hike through the steppes of the mountain range and experienced hikers, or those looking for a rugged adventure, follow the trail for the breathtaking landscape, stopping to rest for the night at mountain huts called refugios. So, in search of our Dolomite adventure, we booked two nights at Refugio Scoiattoli, one accessible only by chair-lift and foot. Perched on the peaks in which World War One was fought between the Italian and Austria-Hungarian troops, Scoiattoli is truly a gem hidden in the crevasse. We had originally tried to stay at its more popular but overbooked neighbour, Rifugio Lagazuoi, that had the title of ‘highest rifugio in the Dolomites’, but as the four-wheel drive rounded the corner, we knew this quaint wooden cabin dwarfed on all sides by the looming grey rock had captured our heart.

It was surreal. We tried taking photos from all angles, yet each photo was a botched attempt at capturing the beauty only the eyewitness could comprehend. It seemed the only appropriate thing to do was curl up on a bench and stare out the window, trying my best to absorb the grandeur of it all.

Upon recommendation of the other four lodgers who were in the middle of their Alta Via journey, we rode a chairlift up to Lagazuoi the next day for panoramic views of the Trentino Alto Adige range, and a steep descent down through the World War One tunnels that penetrated a maze through the heart of the mountain. A sign over the tunnel entrance warned us we would need a headlamp, helmet and boots, but we ventured in anyways with hiking sandals, BlueJay caps and iPhone flashlights. 500 meters of dark stairs later, we emerged into the sunlight victorious, with a slightly bruised ankle and a much deeper appreciation of our soldiers.

There was a plethora of hikes to do from our refugio, including the via ferrata, in which you use harnesses and pulleys to pull yourself up the rock face. We only had the strength for one this trip, but my sister and I were determined to conquer the Alta Via together at some point in the future. This was not going to be the last we would see of the Dolomites.

5. Italian cuisine

A piece on Italy’s hidden gems would not be complete without a section on its cuisine. Italians pride themselves on their food. In Italy, I finally understood what al dente meant, and that gnocchi can actually melt in your mouth. They have a concept called “abbinamento”, which means the way things go together: which wine pairs with which food, which pasta shape with which sauce. Everything is detailed, calculated, done with an eye for beauty. One must eat with the season and location, so that the food is always fresh. In Sicily, eat fish; in Bologna, eat ragu; but everywhere and anytime, use olive oil.

Here are three of my favourite eating experiences from the trip:

a) Osteria dell’Orsa (Via Mentana 1, Bologna)

We stumbled upon this hole-in-the-wall shop while perusing the streets of the Quadrilatero, the gastronome epicentre of the nation’s food capital. Drawn in by the buzzing atmosphere and the overworked waiters (always a sign of a good restaurant), we stopped in here for a quick lunch, only to discover that this was a local’s favourite. If you don’t mind being squeezed onto a long cafeteria bench and talking over the din of lunch chatter, the food is second-to-none. We ordered the tagliatelle al ragu Bologna is known for, ravioli with pesto (which my sister claimed is the best ravioli she has ever eaten) and a “piatti unico” of couscous paired with brie topped with apple jelly and pate. With unbelievably cheap prices, this meal came up often as our standard of comparison during the rest of our trip.

My sister and I (unsuccessfully) trying to find a place for lunch in the Quadrilatero, which ended up being a good thing!

b) Ristorante Pizzeria Il Timone (Via Olivo 29, Porto Venere)

It was my second time to the beautiful but over-photographed Cinque Terre and my family was in desperate need of escaping somewhere isolated. Our AirBnB host in La Spezia suggested we head to Porto Venere, a town sequestered from the others but no less charming. We were not disappointed. The sun was just setting on the harbour, glinting off the lines of docked boats and highlighting the sweet pastel colours of the stacked shophouses. Known for the local Ligurian cuisine, Il Timone’s menu consisted of anchovies, focaccia with various toppings, farinata (a chickpea flour pancake) and traditional Italian fare in combination with all sorts of seafood. Surprisingly, the appetiser of anchovies which were preserved with salt, then fried and served with garlic and lemon juice, was our favourite, the tanginess juxtaposed against the taste of the sea.

c) La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali (Via della Madonna Dei Monti 9, Rome)

So, this place is not exactly hidden, but it had to make it on my list of favourite eats. It was the most highly rated place near our next destination, the Colosseum, and so we joined the ranks of excited tourists to sample their food. I loved my order of onion soup, warm and dark with a covering of melted cheese, as well as the bites I had of my dad’s bacon-wrapped lamb. But, the best was probably my mom’s sweet and sour eggplant and crispy artichokes, char-grilled to perfection. I never knew vegetables could taste so good.

“Italy has everything!” my dad commented as we shared our last thoughts on the country. I agreed. From the dusty roads cut into mountain of the Amalfi Coast to sleepy Umbria with its ancient architecture to the rolling Tuscan hills canvased with olive oil groves, the towering majesty of the Dolomites, the pastels of Cinque Terre and finally the ancient marble and basalt cobble of Rome, Italy has it all.

It was time to go, but I didn’t want to say goodbye without knowing when the next time I would return to this beautiful land would be. But, I was grateful that in Italian, the greeting for departure and arrival is identical. I guess in Italy, you never have to say goodbye.

Until next time we meet.

Ciao, Italia. 

Seoul: An Introduction

After Jerusalem, Seoul is definitely one of my favorite cities in the world. As my friend Ben said, it has everything a city could possibly want: the hip and modern with its lively night scene and the busy metropolitan sky-towers, but also the quiet and cosy with its historical villages, tucked-away quaint cafes, and the long stretches of park beside river.

I spent 10 days of adventure and exploration in this beautiful city and so for anyone who is interested in spending a few days, here is a quick run-down of the districts and my favourite spots.

The North: History in the Bukchon Village and the People’s Square

Seoul is divided by the Hangang River, with the north of the river being “old money” and historical, while the south being modern, yuppie and bourgeoisie. Being the romantic I am, my ideal day would be finding a hipster cafe or vintage teahouse to hole up in and just write, of course, accompanied with a layered matcha-cream cake.

One of the districts a visit to Seoul must include is the bukchon hanok village. The bukchon village was formed during the early Joseon Dynasty (1392 – 1910) and originally housed noble families and high-ranking officials. Now, the villages are mostly residential areas, but also an endearing cultural relic for you to wander and find tucked-away gems among the traditional Korean-style hanoks.

Hanok Stay

To get an authentic homestay experience, I would recommend a hanok stay with a Korean family. So does CNN travel with its top 5 reasons why you should stay at hanok while in Seoul. I stayed at Yoo’s guesthouse for 3 nights, where I was housed in the Room of Hope. The decor was simple with its latticed sliding doors, wooden panelled floors and basic furnishings. But, I felt like I got a taste of traditional Korean living, sleeping on the floor with a thin mattress and waking up to Mr. Yoo calling me to the kitchen for a traditional Korean breakfast. I had chook (porridge) with a dash of soy sauce paired with cheon (Korean battered pancakes) and salted anchovies the first day and bulgogi bibimbap (soy sauce beef rice bowl) the second. The guesthouse was well-equipped and the couple friendly. They provided me with a hairdryer, adapter and a water heater (which supplied me my Korean instant coffee in the mornings), along with maps of the locality and recommendations of tourist spots.

Exploring the Village

My first day at the guesthouse, I ventured out to the nearby village (about a 10 min walk from Yoo’s), armed with a map from the Bukchon Tourist Information Center. The map is a good guideline, but the best parts are off the beaten path, away from the swarms of tourists. These are some of the hidden gems I found on my wanderings:

Cha Masineun Tteul

On the top of the hanok village mountain with an incredible view of the rooftops nestled among treetops is a quaint teahouse, serving steeped ginseng or jujube teas accompanied with sunflower seeds and chewy puffed rice snacks. I ordered an oriental raisin tree tea and enjoyed steeping the leaves repeatedly as I sat cross-legged at a low wooden Korean table. The soft music and cool air under wooden slanted roofs made it a peaceful oasis from the blistering heat.

Granhand Scent Shop

Walking up the picturesque Bukchon-ro 11-gil, I chanced upon a scent shop run by a petite young girl dressed in a homemaker’s apron. She kindly introduced me to the homemade scents in the form of candles, laundry sprays and diffusers. I bought an “Esther Dean” laundry spray, which had hints of pear and cedar.

Jiyugaoka

I am always on the look-out for cool cafes. Recommended by the infamous Lady Iron Chef, I decided to head on down. Located at Yunposun-gil 46, it is the perfect cosy spot for some people watching, and travel-blogging while digging into a matcha cake and sipping a chocolate latte.

People’s Square and Chongyecheon Stream

The north-west of the city is where the present government resides – in the Blue House next to the historical palaces. To explore this area, I took a subway to Jonggak (line #1) which would land you in the older area of Jung-no gu. My friends took me to eat Andong jjimdalk (Korean-style braised chicken) before walking west to the People’s Square via the Chongyecheon Stream. Along the stream, children play in the water, sunlight streaming in and bouncing iridescent off its surface as fathers perch with cameras hung around their necks, shutter-happy.

The People’s Square is a long stretch of wide sidewalk where festivals or politically-charged protests are held. When we were there, a protest in the form of a street festival fighting for the justice of the victims of the Sewol ferry disaster was taking place. The statue of Sejong the Great, the founder of hangeul, stands erect and peaceful in the middle of the square.

At the end of the long stretch lie the palaces and if you were to head north-west, you would hit Buamdong – a rich residential area that used to house the nobility of Seoul. It is now a quaint and quiet neighborhood with cafes scattered among its hilly terrain. We stumbled upon one called “Lumberjack” where we slurped up icy grapefruit ade.

 

Korean Princess for a Day: The Gyeungbokgung Palace and Tosokchon

The best friends are the ones who are willing to do anything with you – including prancing around Seoul in traditional Korean costume. The day after Ben arrived, we decided to be the royal family for the day – a decision not only rewarded with free admission to all the palaces, but also the stares of many curious onlookers as they evaluated this anachronistic scene.

There are many hanbok rental places in Seoul, but we chose one in Chungmoro called “Oneday Hanbok”. For 13,000 won, we rented full outfits (mine came with a pretty headband, handbag and hair accessories) for 4 hours. I think the hanbok is the prettiest traditional outfit of all, so I had the time of my life posing with the palace architecture in the layers of chiffon and silk.

The palaces can be quite crowded with Chinese tourist groups, but the palace is big enough for you to find untouched spots where you can be alone and get a good picture. I would recommend grabbing a guide at the welcome center instead of going for the free tours as it allows you the freedom to wander around yourself.

I would, however, hit the Seoul Folk Museum in the middle of the palace grounds, where there are four exhibitions that give a good overview of Korean history and culture. Admission is free and the air-conditioning is a welcome respite from the heat (especially when you are buried under layers of hanbok).

A trip to the palace would not be complete without a visit to the famous Tosokchon (featured left), where stuffed ginseng chicken is served on demand. The line may be long when you arrive, but you are soon ushered into the oldest established ginseng chicken restaurant. Recommended by many travel blogs, Tosokchon did not disappoint. It even out-surpassed our expectations when we found dates and chestnuts nestled in the glutinous rice our chickens were stuffed with.

Shopping Joy: Insadong, Namdaemun, Dongdaemun and Myeongdong

Each shopping district in Seoul has its own character.

Insadong

Insadong, being close to the bukchon hanok village and the palaces, is more traditional, selling trinkets and souvenirs. I visited the area three times in my ten days. Places to hit would be:

Ssamziegil

An interesting mall with a zig-zag ramp that traverses the mall, giving you a good look into each boutique shop. On the first floor is a booth selling bbomg dang (directly translated as “poop bread”) stuffed with either red bean or chocolate. I bought a set where it came with iced hyesik (Korean sweet rice drink). My friends and I also dressed up in hanbok and took booth-photos (yes, the cheesy ones you can decorate)

Traditional tea house

I went to two during my stay. The first was called “Dawon” in the Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art. The minute you walk in, you can smell the richness of the jujube tea. Our order of date tea, ginger tea, medicinal herb tea and cold matcha milk came with the puffed rice snack and calmed our senses as we inhaled and sipped simultaneously. The second was one that Ben looked up called Sinyetsenchatjip. It had a cosy, vintage feel with collectibles, presumably from the owner’s travels or an auction for antiques, lining the walls. I ordered a papaya tea – a sweet thick tea with pieces of dried papaya – while Ben got a traditional chrysanthenum.

Tobang

When I was hanging with Esther, we were looking for a place to try her much-loved mukbap (acorn jelly cold soup) and on a whim, ducked into Tobang (50-1, Insadong-gil). Much to our surprise, they served us amazing side dishes – marinated crab, anchovies, excellent kim chi – along with our order of mukbap and seafood pancake, all for a very reasonable price.

O’sulloc Tea House

This is a chain green tea dessert store with branches all over Seoul, but I had to try the one in Insadong. The store front has paper cups for you to taste the tea from Jeju Island, but Esther and I made a bee-line to the counter inside, where we ordered green tea ice cream with matcha drizzle as well as a green tea sponge cake roll. For a matcha fan like me, it was a hit.

Namdaemun

Namdaemun Market has more of a night-market feel, where stalls are nestled close to each other, selling cheap, wholesale clothes of sketchy quality and street food like hotteok (a sweet cinnamon sticky pancake that I tried – thumbs up!). We got a map at the information center, and had fun meandering along the narrow streets lined with stalls, inspecting but being careful not to buy any wares.

Dongdaemun

Dongdaemun Market would then be the opposite of Namdaemun. Upscale and trendy, Dongdaemun is a collection of air-conditioned, multi-level malls where clothes sell for 30,000 won and up. I perused some of the styles at Doota (a mall that Erin Kim recommended), but after realizing that my finances did not entitle me to shop here, we promptly left. Later, Lydia told me that there are cheaper places in Dongdaemun.

Myeongdong

Myeongdong is the cosmetic center of Korea, housing a branch (or three) of every Korean cosmetic brand you could think of: Innisfree, EtudeHouse, Missha, Nature Republic. The best part is that you can sample, and by the end of my trip through the district, my face was covered with all sorts of creams and my nails each painted a different color. They also give you free samples with each purchase you make – not a bad deal for quality avocado masks from Nature Republic and mint green nail polish from Innisfree.

While you’re there, have lunch at Myeongdong Kyoja – a famous restaurant with one thing on their menu: soup noodles with ground beef and dumplings (featured left). If you’re feeling adventurous, try a cat cafe. We went to one called “Cat’s Playground” and were surprised with how clean it was. It is definitely a different experience having cats pounce on your table as you drink your cinnamon chocolate mocha. At night, Myeongdong comes alive with street stalls. I would particularly recommend the tteok-galbi meatballs, but the desserts such as the famous carp stuffed with ice cream and honeycomb or the egg bun with almond and sunflower seeds are worth trying as well.

Where the Youngsters Hang: The Party and Shopping scene

Gangnam

I’m sure you’ve heard the song “Gangnam Style” by Psi that blew up the radio and the dance floors all over the world in 2012. So, there is actually a stage in Gangnam where you can press a button and dance to the song. Who could resist doing that horse trot and side lasso on the stage? It is an area known as bougeouise, pretentious and rich. I quickly caught on as advertisements for plastic surgeries yelled at me the moment I exited the subway station and the two places we went to eat at (Better than Beef and an art cafe called Dori) sold expensive fare. Still, I thoroughly enjoyed catching up with university friends over pork belly in a spicy tomato based sweet sauce for dinner and blueberry pie with a flaky crust and rich center at the cafe resembling a cute doll house. I was reminded of the privilege that comes with the Princeton life, as we conversed on summers in Nairobi, North Korean defectors in Mongolia and the possible imminence of WW3.

Hongdae

Hongdae is where Hongik University is located, a hotspot for street performers, Korean BBQ and party culture. I found an awesome backpacker’s hostel called Crossroads that let you stay in a comfortable 8-bunk bed room for 10USD per night. Not only did I get to meet travellers from different cultures, but I got my private bed complete with a curtain and clean sheets. The area was replete with cute cafes, one called Cafe Ann where they had private booths overlooking the Hongdae area. The dessert was exquisite: a thick slice of caramel honey bread topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a sprinkling of cranberries plus a fondant chocolat.

Ehwa

Another university central spot is Ehwa. Young people come here to shop cheap clothes, shoes and jewellery. I did the majority of my shopping here, picking up cheap walking strappy sandals and some long vintage necklaces. Other than Ehwa, you can also pick up cheap and fashionable clothes at the underground malls, the largest one being the Express Bus Terminal Underground Mall. I found a super cute sweetheart neck dark blue dress  for only 3,000 won (less than 3 USD)! Talk about bargain shopping.

Political Tensions Rise: Visiting North Korea

There are many tours available to bring you to the De-militarized Zone (DMZ) between North and South Korea. With the recent rising tension given North Korea’s belligerent nuclear missile testing, I believe it’s increasingly important to understand the current situation. My friends and I decided to go for the combined full-day tour, which included the Dora Station, the Observatory from which you could see North Korea, the 3rd Tunnel and Imjidak in the morning. After a bulgogi lunch, we ventured into the danger zone – Camp Bonifas and a tour of the Joint Security Area. While the morning consisted of areas that could be visited by the general public, the afternoon was the most interesting and high-security.

The highlight of the tour was probably when we were lined in two rows at the border between North and South Korea. The silence was almost tangible as sweat beaded on the foreheads of the guards that stood facing a country closed off from the world. It was hard to believe that in a modern society like ours, there still exists such a border of hate and unease. I took a picture (above, left) with the guard who protected the door leading to North Korea, but accidentally took a step behind him. His head swivelled sharply before snapping back into place after ensuring that I wasn’t about to defect to NK anytime soon. I apologized repeatedly, bowing my head to him in humble deference.

I visited the DMZ a second time – this time on a prayer tour for the peace between the two Koreas. As I stood atop the Ohdu-San Observatory that overlooked North Korea, I recited the Lord’s Prayer over this country wrought with poverty and suffering: let your will be done on earth as it is in heaven…

Popular Korean Leisure: kicking it back in the jjimbang

One of my favorite experiences in Seoul was chilling in the jjimbang (Korean spa), a popular hangout spot for the locals to de-stress after a long day of work. The most extensive jjimbang is Dragonhill Spa and Resort and so, Hyewon and I venture out to Yongsan for our adventure.

When you sign in, you are given a change of a grungy green set of shirt and shorts. The main area is open space where people lie around and relax on massage chairs but various rooms surround the open area: the oak wood charcoal oven with three temperatures (bottom picture), the pyramid meditative room that smelled like Korean traditional medicine, the pine tree wood fire sweating room, the Hanoki green air room with bacteria-killing air and the ice room. Hyewon and I tried each room for a short while, sometimes sitting in comfortable silence inhaling deeply the thick muggy air and other times conversing quietly.

The second section of the jjimbang is the men and women-only section, where you are required to strip naked. At first, I was real self-conscious but soon enough, as you see everyone sauntering unabashedly around the sauna, you too lose your inhibitions. There were a few hot pools (around 45 degrees C) where you could turn on the jets and sit as it massaged your body, or you could sit in the dry sauna to sweat before dipping into the cold pool to rinse off.

Many Meals Later: working it off in Hangang Park

There were way too many meals in Seoul for me to count them all. Some highlights were:

• Joo Yoo Byul Jang, an exquisite fusion restaurant in Bundang that Hyewon’s sister took us too. Here, I tried makgeoli and liked it for the first time (it was mixed with honey-banana)! The other dishes were hits – secret seasoning pork neck, eggplant in spicy garlic sauce and ricotta cheese sesame tteouk-bbuki.
• Chungjinok, one of the oldest restaurants that serve Hang Judak (hangover soup). Located in Jongno-gu, the place is frequented by locals who want comforting beef bone soup for a perfect end to a day
• Hansik Byeokje, a Korean BBQ restaurant listed by CNN as one of the top restaurants in Seoul. The kalbi meat was grilled to perfection – soft and chewy – served with rice cake and mushrooms on charcoal.
• Sulbing, a famous chain restaurant that serves up patbingsu – shaved ice with various toppings. We ordered the traditional red bean patbingsu with injeolmi over top as well as a more Western coffee one that came with vanilla ice cream and nuts.

Many filling meals later, however, it was time to work off any extra calories. No better way than to bike down the Hangang River, so we rented bikes off bikeseoul.com that has stations located all over Seoul. We started from Oksu Station Exit 3 and biked west along the paved path, going under bridges and passing grandparents on long river-walks or families picnicking in tents. We crossed the river at Yeuipodo Island and found a little island called Sebitseom on the way back.

The Hangang River bike ride was the perfect end to my Seoul adventure – and as I took in the beautiful juxtaposition of modern skyline against the peaceful river-sky, I knew I would be coming back soon. This time, I would come armed with a DSLR ready to capture every beautiful moment and I would enroll in One Million Dance Studio classes. Until then, Seoul, you have captured my heart.

Japan: Kyoto, Osaka and Uji

The free spirit in me believes that your 20s is the decade to see the world. So, here is 23-year-old me venturing out of my tiny village enclave to adventure the romantic cities of Kyoto and Seoul.

August 5th: Okonomiyaki and the Kyoto Night Tour

Landing in Kansai International Airport, I was immediately struck by how orderly and clean Japan was. I lined up 3 times with my call number to get my currency changed while in China, you would simply wave your wad of money in the face of the money-changer. The river sparkled pristine-blue as the airport shuttle transported me from KIX to Kyoto Station where Johnny Langdon, an old friend from the first M trip in freshman year, picked me up. He has been living in Kyoto for the past 3 years, working as an English teacher at 2 different Japanese high schools. His housemate, Aaron, happened to be a visiting PhD student from the University of Toronto (a fellow Canadian!) and so I caught up on Canadian news as we navigated the Kyoto subway station to Donguri, a famous okonomiyaki restaurant in the Gion District.

“Okono” means “however you like” and yaki means “grilled”, and so okonomiyaki is a thick pancake of flour, egg and whatever toppings you would like grilled on a stone top right in front of you. We ordered three kinds: mochi and cheese (my favorite), seafood and pork, along with an order of sukiyaki udon. We were a confusing trio – the Indian and American ordered in Japanese while the waiter looked bemusedly at me: the only Japanese-looking yet apparently mute one.

As the sizzling okonomiyaki slid onto the stone top, Johnny taught me to first hold my chopsticks and bow slightly, saying “itadakimas”, before proceeding to slice it like pizza.  Said before meals, it means “I humbly receive this food”. After a few slip-ups, I quite quickly caught on to this Japanese ritual.

Other rituals, Johnny informed me, include Gion Matsuri when Kyoto shuts Shijo Street down and parades a traveling shrine between road performers and street food stalls, as well as O-bon, an ancient Buddhist-Confucian custom of honoring ancestor spirits, then burning letters on the hills surrounding Kyoto to chase these spirits away.

9p.m. soon rolled around, the prime time to spot a real geisha. Usually, you wait around 20-30 min at a particular ochaya (teahouse) to see one emerge, but to our surprise as we rounded the corner, we chanced upon businessmen in suits exiting the teahouse, flanked by 6 geishas. They had just ended their night of entertainment in the ochaya, one only the rich could afford. With their faces painted white and elegant cotton kimonos, they were a glimmer of ancient Japan before disappearing into the eerie quiet of the Kyoto night, their footsteps padding down the cobblestones to the echoes of shrine-bells meant to awaken the spirits.

My adventurous tour guides then whisked me down the dusky back alleys of Kyoto, halfway up to Kiyomizu dera to Unknown Pagoda (ominous in the moonlight), and back down steep stone slats to Yasaka Shrine, Maruyama Park and finally the infamous Komogawa River. The river was lit up with strings of lanterns and lined with either couples out for a romantic night or drunk college kids out for fun.

It was about 11p.m. as we walked the final stretch through the long alley of orange arches: the iconic Fushimi-Inari Shrine. I ran my hands along the line of engraved poles, each thump bringing me closer to the holy place as the Japanese would believe.

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August 6th: Osaka Castle and Uji Island beauty

Tokyo and Osaka are two of Japanese’s largest cities. As the first capital of Japan until 1868, Kyoto is historical and conservative. Contrasting Tokyo and Osaka then, the stereotype is Tokyo the cold (shy, reserved, snobby or ‘zombie-like’ as Johnny would say) and Osaka the hot (outgoing, aggressive, extravagant).

The Keihan Railway took us directly from Kyoto to Osaka Station and while Johnny took his history teacher certification exam, I wandered the busy shopping district of Dotonburi. The street is full of takoyaki stores but I would recommend Dotonburi Konamon Museum, where I had 6 pieces of two flavors: the regular octopus and bacon and cheese. Melt-in-your-mouth goodness.

Osaka Castle is the other main attraction in the city – a giant park with the reconstructed castle of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. It was 600 yen to enter the castle, now a museum detailing its history. The museum was cool, but if I ever went back, I would rather wander the park for free then pay.

One of Johnny’s favorite hang-out spots is Uji Island, a quaint town famous for its green tea and cormorant fishing. Cormorants are birds trained to dive down and catch fish attracted to the lit fires in boats, then spit the fish back up. We bought cones of matcha soft serve (a must-have) and had bento sushi beside the Uji River – a perfect, peaceful end to the day.

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August 7th: Arashimaya bamboo and my Sushi experience

The region of Arashiyama is most well-known for its bamboo groves, but the Togetsukyo Bridge, Hozu River and Cormorant Fishing also make it a popular destination for tourists. With its uneven rows of smooth grey-blue, the forest offers a magical escape into zen Japan. The surrounding grassy fields lend itself well to Frisbee playing, so we toss a few before jumping on the Arashiyama street car and making our way to Nijo, where I have one of my best ever sushi experiences.

It could be that I never had the chance to appreciate real sushi, because I was too busy stuffing it down at all-you-can-eat restaurants. Or that I never knew the real technique of enjoying the taste (dipping the raw fish into the soy sauce, spreading a dab of wasabi on it before replacing it on the rice). Or perhaps it was the natural enchantment of eating sushi in Japan. But, my experience at Mutenkuda Sushi (a popular chain revolving sushi restaurant) was definitely a first.

The Japanese amaze me with the efficient designs. There were two conveyor belts – the bottom one was slow to accommodate sushi-perusing, while the top one was the express lane, where the sushi you ordered was sent to your table with a beeping sound signifying its arrival. The table was equipped with a container of matcha powder and a hot water dispenser (for DIY green tea), plentiful amounts of wasabi and ginger and a slot-shaped plate collector. When you slide 5 plates into the collector, the screen (usually for orders) lights up and runs a slot machine of cute anime characters. Cleaning plates, entertainment and counting plates for the bill (100 won per plate), the system was the epitome of Japanese efficiency. I savored every moment of my Japanese revolving sushi experience, especially the end when the waitress handed me the receipt expectantly even though Johnny was the one communicating with her in Japanese the whole time. As they say, habits die hard.

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August 8th: Kiyomizu-dera, Picnic at the Imperial Palace and Fireworks on Mount Horaison

My final day in Kyoto would not have been complete without a visit to a temple and I chose the prettiest of them all: Kiyomizu-dera (Pure Water Temple). The most famous of the over 1600 temples are Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion) and Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion), but my local tour guide advised that they would be over-crowded and so we should hike up to Kiyomizu for its impressive views of Kyoto instead.

Many Japanese are superstitious. They believe in ringing bells to summon the ancestors and buying “good wishes” (o-mikuji) while leaving the bad ones hanging on suspended strings. The scene on the hanging verandah of Kiyomizu was no different. One distinct ritual, however, was the “love stones” in the Jishu-jinja shrine. The stones, placed 18 metres apart, promised success in love if you could walk to the other stone with your eyes closed without assistance. We watched with amusement as one older Chinese man stumbled blindly into the path of an unsuspecting Japanese woman. They bumped heads, and she peered out, annoyed, from her visor, while he apologized awkwardly. Perhaps the meeting of your true love was quite literal.

The descent from Kiyomizu took us through the atmospheric Higashiyama District where we took the liberties of sampling (free) mochi flavors, while curiously inspecting the pottery and Japanese pickles on display. The deep kawara-tiled eaves of the roofs, made to protect the traditional Japanese house from the sun, characterize these steeply descending alleyways and tourists (including us!) are frequently seen posing in these Kyoto-picturesque streets.

The Imperial Palace, formerly a historical site only accessible for paid tours, now serves as a recreational space for both tourists and residents. Johnny knew of a “secret spot” (one of his many) to take Wakama (his former student) and I, so we grabbed Japanese fastfood (gyudon: beef donburi with egg) and picnicked at a shaded spot within the grounds. Surrounded by cherry blossom trees, it is a favorite spot for hanami (cherry blossom viewing) in the spring, but even without the blossoms, the spot was a pleasant respite from the blazing heat.

My trip ended with an epic hike up the tallest mountain in Kyoto City: Mount Horaison. Each city puts on an annual firework show, and that night was Otsu’s turn. Having fought off pressing crowds just to get a glimpse of the fireworks, Johnny decided that hiking up Horaison to see the fireworks would be a better idea. So, between swigs of Japanese gatorade, and bites of tuna onigiri (seaweed wrapped triangular sushi – a typical Japanese snack), we braved it up the mountain. The view of the sunset and the fireworks exploding into the night sky made it all worth it, though. And so, my last night in Japan was spent perched on a wall watching colors mushroom and plummet, the quiet still mountain air interspersed with sighs of “Kide!” (Beautiful) and “Hireshi!” (Happy). Fitting, indeed.

a weekend in taiwan

It is amazing how the sensual experience of eating food comes to life after a period of not having much of it. This weekend was my first time to Taipei – a land known for its food and shopping – and I was ready to indulge. I had done some research on must-eats in Taiwan; the result was a Pinterest board of quail egg takoyaki and pork belly mantou. But, mainly, I was relying on Amber, a local whom I had met through my best university friend, Victoria, to show me around.

Day 1

As we emerged from the Tai Bei airport, the street scene of orderly roads, mall signs and overhead passes reminded me of Singapore, my place of birth. Amber and I chatted animatedly, as we crossed to the beeps of the flashing green man.

“I’m going to take you to Dong Qu – a slightly higher-class area known for its cafes and night life. We’ll grab a snack at a matcha tea house.”

Matcha (a Japanese green tea powder) happens to be my favorite flavor. The matcha house was tucked away in a quiet alley, lined with rows of Western-style cafes advertising crepes and ravioli.

We were immediately greeted with a hearty Japanese greeting and given a menu that had matcha desserts in the front and regular Japanese lunch food at the back. Thankfully, Amber and I were both up for snacking small throughout the day and so, we ordered an iced matcha bubble tea and a chocolate matcha parfait.

You could tell from one sip of the bubble tea that the matcha was authentic. Initially refreshing and mildly sweet, the aftertaste surprised you with an light undertone of bitter, as if to transport you to a Japanese tea field. The parfait was simply decadent. A layer of matcha jelly lined the bottom, followed by alternating layers of cream and cornflake, finally topped with a generous scoop of matcha ice cream, a dollop of a packed red bean paste and drizzled with chocolate sauce. Surrounding the ice cream were 3 brownie-cakes dusted with matcha powder and a crunchy chocolate-lined wafer-stick.

Taiwan is known for its emerging cafe scene, where Asian desserts are served in a clean, comfortable manner. If you are looking for a quiet place to escape the heat and catch up with friends, I would recommend matcha tea house and sharing a parfait or a cold drink.

It was about 2:30p.m. that we finally left and made our way to NET – a trendy clothing shop similar to Forever 21 but with reasonable prices. They were having a shorts sale and I picked up 2 for 600 Taiwanese kuai (~20 USD). It was pouring typhoon-like after the shorts-shopping, so Amber and I ducked into a subway station and made our way to the Tai Bei Train Station, a popular downtown hangout for the local Taiwanese.

It was a maze underground, and even getting to Breeze (the part of the station we were interested in), the rows of food courts interspersed with Japanese/Korean restaurants made it hard to navigate. But, Amber and I weren’t in a hurry – sampling toothpicks of red bean mochi or chocolate cheesecake as we moseyed along. We finally found a local Taiwanese restaurant that overlooked the main area of the station and called an order of “xiao long bao” (the famous soup buns Taiwan is famous for) and “cong you bing” (scallion pancakes).

The cong you bing was just how I like it – flaky on the outside but soft through its thickness. I dipped it in soy sauce and carefully balanced a few slivers of ginger on it before taking a bite. I was proud of my chopstick skills as I didn’t break a single xiao long bao skin lifting those babies out of the bamboo basket. With the proper procedure of first piercing the skin, then sucking the soup juice, and finally savoring the succulent meat and pearly dumpling skin, I devoured them one by one.

Finally, for dessert, we chanced upon a bakery and I spotted a platter of perfectly charred Portuguese egg tarts. I bought one and Amber and I shared a serving of “dou hua” (a soft tofu dessert with peanuts and sago). The egg tart did not disappoint with its full buttery layers of crust and rich, melted egg middle. If you have more time, I would definitely recommend exploring more of the TaiBei Bus station – there were many small shops with tempting displays of pastries, mochi, and mini cheesecakes!

Day 2.

We started the day off with lunch at Zhi Shan’s famous beef noodles. A cardboard cutout of a man with a CNN article toting the restaurant as the best beef noodle shop in Taiwan stood at the entrance of the shop.

We waited about 15 minutes for a seat; meanwhile, Amber and Rhee snagged bubble teas with 3 different kinds of pearls at a nearby shop. There were 3 options for soup: “ma la” (spicy), tomato soup and clear soup, as well as options for the different kinds of meat (regular beef meat, tendon, tripe) and noodles (ramen or green bean). I ordered a tomato soup with green bean thread noodles and beef tendon and meat. The tendon was not as chewy as expected, and in fact, a pleasant middle between the slippery cellophane noodles and the firm beef meat. I would explore alternating the various textures with an occasional spoonful of the warm flavored broth interspersed between.

Next, we spent some time at a local bookstore perusing books before heading to TaiBei Bus station to meet Victor Hsiao. The basement of the station houses 3 underground malls and so, being girls, we kill time by walking the length of the TaiBei underground mall. For anyone interested in picking up cheap yet cute clothes, gadgets, or getting massaged, you can do all that and more underground.

In the basement of Q-square (one portion of the bus station) lies a food court. We met up with Victor and caught up on his past few months in Taiwan. I shared “lu rou fan” (Taiwanese braised pork rice), a meatball soup and oyster omelette with Rhee.

Finally, the highlight of the trip: Raohe Night Market. Shilin is the more famous and tourist-populated night market, but Raohe is more known for its food, which is what we were really there for anyways.

The market was abuzz with night life: vendors frying up clouds of oily steam, crowds jostling as they hold tightly to their stick of meatballs, and blenders whirring up fresh fruit in plastic cups. It can be overwhelming so this a general guide to what I found was worth the stomach space:

1. “Hu Jiao Bing” (black pepper pork buns)

   Basically, it is a sauced chopped pork mix with pickled vegetables wrapped in a flaky pizza-like crust. One of my favorites.

2. Fried milk

Crisp on the outside, and milky soft on the inside. On the whole, it tasted like a cream puff on a stick.

3. “Gua bao” – pork belly with shaved peanut and cilantro wrapped in a mantou (chinese bun)

I had heard that this was a must-try of Taiwanese street food. I wasn’t a huge fan of the fatty meat, but the sauce paired with the pickled vegetables was definitely a hit. It is traditional Taiwanese though – so do try it.

4. “Da chang bao xiao chang” – directly translated as big intestine wraps small intestine

This is one of Victor’s favorites and we got it near the end of our tour even though we were all really full. It isn’t as scary as its name sounds. Basically, it’s a Taiwanese sausage wrapped in a sticky rice hotdog. Flavorful and comforting, I definitely enjoyed this (to Victor’s delight).

5.  Imagawayaki – a Japanese pancake cooked in a cast-iron mould with different fillings

We were drawn in by the tempting photos and the interesting looking fillings. The pancake reminded me of Japanese cheese cake. For the fillings, we chose 2: chocolate and cheese, the other was custard and cheese. The consensus was that the chocolate was the better of the two (:

5. Stinky tofu

Of course, I had to try the stinky tofu – one of the defining factors of the Taiwanese night market. The smell is quite overwhelming and it overtakes you unexpectedly as you wander the stalls before you see the large pot of marinating soft blobs of white. There are two different kinds – one is fried triangles that have the sauce over top, the other is the soft kind that have been marinating in the “stinky sauce” for a long time. With it being my first time, I opted for the fried kind – and being a tofu-lover, I didn’t mind the tofu at all and it really wasn’t as stinky as I thought it would be. Perhaps I will try the soft kind the next time!

Rhee bought a cheese potato, while Victor had his favorite – 3 scoops of ice cream wrapped in a “dan bing” pancake with shaved peanut brittle. Needless to say, we were stuffed by the end of our night market adventure – and I ended mine by washing it down with cold papaya milk (a popular drink in Taiwan for women as it is supposed to help with girl issues).

Day 3

It is Sunday and I am now on the bus back to Shangjie, after spending the morning at ch with Rhee and Amber.

Taiwan was absolutely amazing – the perfect combination of fellowship, food and fun. I was so grateful for the chance to reconnect with old friends and so grateful for the hospitality of Amber – who taught me about China-Taiwan relations, and whom I had really stimulating intellectual conversations about the intersection of faith and science with, as well as for Rhee who generously shared food + cosmetic bags with me and informed me of the Taiwanese education system. And of course, Victor who graciously ate the portion of stinky tofu I couldn’t finish, waited patiently in a long line for the “hu jiao bing” and willingly accompanied us to Raohe even though it was on the opposite end of the subway line from his house.

I will be back – but until next time, Taiwan! (now back to my clean eating and workout plan lol)